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BoardRoom (2012) Full Documentary

Greg Noll is the most mythic of big-wave surfers. Known as `Da Bull,' he was born Greg Lawhead on the 11th of February, 1937 and changed his name after his mother Grace married Ash Noll. They lived near the Manhattan Beach pier, where the young boy fished and worked as a bait-disher. Out on the pier, he whiffed the wisdom of the fishermen and first felt the euphoria of the `kook-box' and redwood surfboard sliders riding the swells below. That, he thought, is what I want to do with my life.